A little below here the path heads steeply down to Glen Shiel and the main road to Shiel Bridge. Bin erschrocken, wie schnell man die Orientierung verliert. Mein großes Abenteuer ist zu Ende. This seemed to be a strange question since I was wearing boots, gaiters, walking trousers and had a bulging 45L rucksack strapped to my back. As it turned out, I had met a character at the Strathcarron Hotel the night before who offered me a lift to Gerry’s Hostel, a few miles beyond the station. Auf weiten Strecken ist man fernab der Zivilisation und auch vernünftige Wege machen sich teilweise rar. Die Sonne bessert zwar die Laune, aber trägt ihren Teil zur Erschöpfung bei. A lick of paint for the website. Having walked half of this long-distance trail in north west Scotland in 2012, and the second half in 2013 (the link to the second half is at the top of this page) it seemed to me that some prospective walkers would benefit from help with route-finding along a trail that seems bound to grow in popularity in coming years. Sign to Strathan warning that you are about to leave the known universe. I trudged up the road and, while dodging camper vans, at least had the advantage of seeing how the mountains in this area near Torridon were changing shape. Blog; Hiking the Cape Wrath Trail – Part 5. Also laufen wir wieder los, finden in einiger Entfernung noch einen Blick auf den Turm mit Steilküste im Vordergrund. Even so, I completely missed the iron gate that B&H mention as having seen in 1983. So, if you want to walk the trail, do it now rather than later. You might walk into the wrong pass, they say – presumably Bealach Gorm, which is where you would end up anyway if you followed the arrows on the misleading green sign on the path up from the village. No, the bridge is right there. The Cape Wrath Trail is challenging and frustrating, mostly because the "Cape Wrath Trail" is something that someone (probably on the internet) made up. Lochan a Mhaim: a little bit of heaven on earth. Der CWT führt von Fort William zum nordwestlichsten Punkt Schottlands, dem Cape Wrath. Als ich vom Cape Wrath Trail, vom CWT, lese, will ich herausfinden, ob ich den packe. Jetzt geht es noch an die Planung für die kommenden Tage. Im Zelt ist es so schön kuschelig:-) Aber die Dusche auf dem Campingplatz tut gut. I find this hard to believe because the forest isn’t that big and your instinct, even if lost, would be to walk north and down hill to the road to Kinlochewe. After a while following this you will get to the lonely estate shelter that B&H talk about. I followed the detour and joined the vehicle track to Benmore Lodge. But if you put some effort forward, you'll see some pretty spectacular scenery and get a damn good taste of the Scottish highlands. As long as you walk most of your chosen route, most people would say you have earned the right to say you’ve done it. Nanu, wartet der auf uns? From here you are on an undemanding descent to the formal gardens at Attadale at the north end of Loch Carron. Wilderness was one reason I was doing this walk – seeking out a few reminders of the Jacobite rebellion, and learning some social history of the glens which supported it, and later suffered Hanoverian vengeance as a consequence, was another. Nie ohne Wanderstöcke nach Schottland! Auf dem letzten Stück wird es nochmal richtig sumpfig und geht dann an einem See entlang. As the river changes direction, the glen steepens and narrows and the sense of seclusion (or isolation) grows greater. Was für ein Tag! In fact, this whole site is designated as a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest) owing to its lichens, dragonflies and native pinewood species – although the condition of this latter feature is currently classed as ‘unfavourable.’  However, the wild flowers pushing through the debris are a  reminder that new life is coming through the soil. The Cape Wrath Trail, besides being Britain’s most remote long-distance trail, is also a noticeably unmarked trail. There is certainly a faint 4×4 track heading in the right direction and I would recommend taking this to make life easier. “The direction is clear; simply keep to the ride,” write B&H. This is your very first post. Continue reading » Harvey Cape Wrath Trail Maps. Far over to the right the landscape opened out into a vast natural amphitheatre and I could see water shining over there. I heard later that two Americans had tried, and failed, to ride this path on mountain bikes they’d brought over with them from the USA. Cape Wrath (Schottisch-Gälisch: Am Parbh, An Carbh in Lewis) ist ein Kap in Sutherland, Highland, im nördlichen Schottland.Das Kap stellt den nordwestlichsten Punkt der Insel Großbritannien dar.. Der Name Cape Wrath (auch englisch für Zorn oder Wut) stammt vom altnordischen Wort für "Umkehrpunkt". The other bears right and climbs steadily to the same loch on a wide track past the Heights of Kinlochewe. Brücken sind auch toll! Aber ich habe ja ausreichend Zeit mich vorzubereiten. The redcoats used mortars to shell a combined force of Highlanders and Spanish troops, which caused the Scots to retreat and the Spaniards to surrender. It wasn’t, so I headed to the top of the next mound. Ich liebe Wege. Am Abend steht das Zelt zwischen den Dünen und ich bin immer wieder einfach nur begeistert von diesem Ort. Die letzten Tage laufe ich nicht mehr allein. Am Ende der ersten Woche kämpfe ich mich bis Morvich durch. But OS shows there is no path from the river outlet to Strathan and so I had to accept another ascent. Den ganzen Tag geht es nur mühsam voran. However, it was flattish on the top and so I wandered around a bit until I saw what seemed to be a winding path fit for the name. Video documenting my April 2018 attempt of the Cape Wrath Trail. Daneben gibt es weitere Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten in Hostels und Hotels. Part of the path near the side of the loch was also being repaired and so, once again, I had to clamber over boulders hanging over sea water. Please consider subscribing to my channel it's free and really helps me out, thank you! This one began with the way-too-expensive Scotrail sleeper to Fort William. There is a very steep and pathless descent to the glen below and, once there, you face a very boggy walk to Strathan (my right leg disappeared up to the thigh in the bog at one point). If you're planning to make the trek, here's what you have to look forward to. The map showed a building to the south of the loch and I wondered whether it was a bothy. Immer wieder ist auch der Leuchtturm zu sehen. Als ich vom Cape Wrath Trail, vom CWT, lese, will ich herausfinden, ob ich den packe. Outdoor; Photography; Hacking; About Me; Cape Wrath Trail – von Ullapool bis …. Surely the loch wasn’t that far? You know the feeling: a rail ticket in your pocket; a rucksack that seems far too heavy; and feelings of excitement about the adventure to come. Er gleicht vielmehr einem Flickwerk aus Straßen, Pfaden, Weiden, Hügeln und Flüssen.Während einzelne der Pfade zwar an menschlichen Siedlungen vorbeiführen, befindet man sich größtenteils im schottischen Nirgendwo oberhalb der zivilisatorischen Grenze Fort William – Inverness. B&H don’t mention this sign. Und dann der Strand. Am folgenden Tag geht es nach Fort William. The end result was that I backtracked, and it was only by backtracking that I saw the iron gates and the cairn, which confirmed I was where I should have been. Der Cape Wrath Trail (oder CWT) ist nicht wirklich ein festgelegter Fernwanderweg, denn es gibt weder eine feste Route noch findet man irgendwo Wegweiser. Dafür hat man streckenweise die Wahl zwischen verschiedenen Varianten. Wir nähern uns langsam dem Cape. I offered the crofter some money for his fuel and bother. Und das natürlich an einem der regnerischsten Tage. When it still wasn’t visible I wondered if I’d gone wrong. Another CWT sight worth writing home about: the falls at Easan Dorcha near the Coulin Pass. Located in Scotland, it runs from Fort William, through the Highlands and Western Scotland, to the lighthouse at Cape Wrath, the northwestern-most point of Scotland. Today should be the only day you really need to use a compass – a point pressed home by B&H who remind you that it is “CRUCIAL” that you locate a certain loch above Kinlochewe in order to find the right pass (Bealach na Croise) to continue north. I turned left and went on. He mumbled something about Morvich and the fact that he didn’t tackle the Falls of Glomach because he didn’t have trekking poles (I missed the falls out too, but not because I didn’t have any poles). At this point the path exits sharply from the gorge and you descend to sea level via a hillside path. The path “bifurcates” at some point, say B&H, employing an unnecessarily obscure word. But that seemed miles away. Latest posts RSS FeedSubscribe to RSS. “Oh, I’m only interested in the rocks,” he said. Ultrapacking on the Cape Wrath Trail . Although the path becomes vague in places, it follows the river, which heads north west, north (at last) and north west again. The Cape Wrath Trail is considered the hardest hiking route in the United Kingdom. A rarely seen example of a human being heading down to the pass. In der Bothy werde ich von 4 jungen Männern, die ich schon am Vortag getroffen hab, mit einem heißen Tee begrüßt. Im gemütlichen Dachzimmer des Hotels ist genug Platz, den Rucksack für die Tour zu sortieren. Dafür gibt es abends ein trockenes Dach über dem Kopf. Und irgendwie ist es spannend, dass so bewusst wahrzunehmen. It’s a very rough pass, furrowed by shallow gullies and strewn with boulders towards the top. But since the lodge no longer appears to be in business, you’d be better off spending half the day lazily exploring the Strathcarron area and then devoting the afternoon to plodding up the road to Gerry’s Hostel on the A890. Profile views - 153 The descent was interesting through the rocks and past numerous deer, all watching me sceptically. The one going upstream should help you negotiate the rough plod for a while but when this also runs out you are left to pick your own way to the steep bottom of the pass. One or two nodded a friendly hello, some gave me a snooty up-and-down look and a few seemed to regard this small part of Scotland as off-limits to anybody not wearing shorts and a number. at this point you will be looking for another exit from the gorge. Home. Last year when I walked the trail I kept a pretty good pace, and my experience on recent trips showed me that 5 km/h is a reasonable pace for me. So for those of you interested in walking to Cape Wrath, it’s time to dust off those map-and-compass skills! The Cape Wrath Ultra® is Scotland’s finest multi-stage ultra running event. Der Trail Der Cape Wrath Trail ist kein offizieller Fernwanderweg. At Fort William I had to wait two hours for the ten-minute ferry crossing across Loch Linnhe and from there it was an undemanding hike along the quiet south shore of Loch Eil towards Glenfinnan in blazing sunshine. B&H suggest you can stay in B&Bs on the southside of Loch Eil. Am Morgen des Abflugs schlafe ich immerhin bis halb vier (der Wecker geht um sechs). If nothing else, you can read the following as a commentary on the route set out in North to the Cape. Approximately 230 miles in length, most people take 2-3 weeks to backpack the trip. The reason why I missed it was because I was following another track through the pass; the reason I found it was because I had a sudden feeling that I was in the wrong pass and walking to the wrong loch. This is true, but I could see vehicle tracks heading up and down the burn on the far bank. Haldane said that the glen was probably used by drovers moving their cattle from Skye in ancient times. Zu Beginn der Tour bleiben sie tief im Rucksack verschwunden, aber nach dem ersten Ausprobieren mag ich sie nicht mehr missen. Day 11: Camasnagaul to Ullapool – 28 miles (by car), early morning wildlife watchers on Little Loch Broom, The A’Chuil bunkhouse across the river in Glen Dessarry, Finding the path to the pass to Barrisdale Bay, Where the path splits to Shenevall bothy on the way to Corrie Hallie. Cape Wrath / ˈ r æ θ / (Scottish Gaelic: Am Parbh, known as An Carbh in Lewis) is a cape in the Durness parish of the county of Sutherland in the Highlands of Scotland.It is the most north-westerly point in mainland Britain. Trouble is, there are a lot of rocks and a lot of trees in and near the river. Mit einem kleinen Umweg beheben wir unseren Navigationsfehler und als ich mich am späten Nachmittag gegen Windböen stemme, würde ich die gern wieder gegen den Nebel tauschen. I’m very glad I’ve now done both, as it’s pretty special here. Ich liebe Wanderkarten und würde mein Handy nur im Notfall benutzen. That’s Loch Arkaig down there. Coming down from the pass, heading over the round top of Meallan Odhar, I met three English walkers coming up – the first people I’d seen since leaving the B&B that morning. Indeed, surely one of the CWT’s attractions for more experienced walkers is that there is no set route. Als wir schließlich an der Glendhu Bothy ankommen, ist diese mit etwa 15 Leuten, Wanderern und Radfahrern, ziemlich voll und wir schlagen lieber unsere Zelte auf. Loch Duich in the background. Fortunately, the water level was low in June and I was able to dash over to the northern bank. Or is the issue not that straight forward? However, he seems to have initially followed the route favoured by author and TGO editor-at-large Cameron McNeish, who suggests the Caledonian Canal as a starter rather than the scenic left-up-left-up-up-right approach of  Brooke and Hinchcliffe. In The Drove Roads of Scotland (David & Charles, 1973), A.R.B. Aber eigentlich fühlt sich das hier wie das Ziel an und wir beschließen, dass das Cape noch einen Tag warten muss. Strathan is between the loch and the forest. And when alone-ness starts to feel more like loneliness, don’t you gain sight of the emotional landscape that lies within your own hidden self? When planning my Cape Wrath Trail trip this year I expected to walk it ultrapacking-style, going for long days with no stops at a steady 5km/h pace. In fact, although I had been planning to camp beside Loch an Nid, the narrow loch on the other side of the pass, the even greater sense of isolation caused by the mountains on both sides of it, and the rain storm that blew in, made me want to keep walking. The craggy tops and smooth rock faces enclosing the loch now looked interesting rather than forbidding and I began to see why B&H recommended the site as a fine place to wild camp. However, I was booked into the Sail Mhor Croft bunkhouse at Camasnagaul, a few more miles up the road, which left a problem as to how I was going to get to Ullapool the next day. I escaped by walking to placid Loch Arkaig as the sun went down, and inspecting the ruins of the Jacobite-era army barracks, dated to 1745 by OS. Anyway, that’s Lochan nam Breac in the distance. http://www.1745association.org.uk/Long%20March.htm. Ist zu zweit ja auch viel sicherer bei solchem Wetter! About Us 'Oner' Blog. I moved to the  left and stumbled across peat gullies to another mound. However, you surely won’t have forgotten that somewhere up ahead B&H will ask you to exit the glen in a dramatic and tiring fashion. I took their advice and soon started to rue the decision since it entailed a two-hour plod over rough ankle-breaking terrain. There are no signs or posts to show you the way; navigating this trail is one of the things you’ll have to take care of yourself. Aber wir wollen doch laufen! At the top the path breaks out into open moorland with clear  views over to Beinn Eighe. Trending Posts. The Cape Wrath Trail is a long distance walk from Fort William to the northwesternmost point of mainland Britain, Cape Wrath. It all seems obvious now. The pass between Glas Bheinn and Beinn Uidhe, looking back towards the loch . is this 100m ‘or so’ from the bottom of the glen? About 1 km south of Loch Ailsh, I saw the first and only sign post for the Cape Wrath Trail which indicated a minor detour from the usual route along the river. Irgendwie zieht es mich im Urlaub meist nach Norden. Und so besorge ich mir Literatur (Iain Harper „Walking the Cape Wrath Trail“) und Karten (Cape Wrath Trail South/North von Harvey Maps, Maßstab 1:40.000), durchforste das Internet nach Informationen und Reiseberichten. Ullapool bis Inchnadamph. Glen Shiel was the scene  of a brief firefight between Hanoverian and Jacobite forces in 1719, the year of the second of the three Jacobite rebellions. Ein paar Tage später laufe ich wieder in eine Nebelwand und freue mich, dort ein vom Trail schon bekanntes Gesicht zu sehen. The alternative was a walk along a busy main road, and finishing the journey by train over the Glenfinnan Viaduct seemed the more interesting option. Not a bad place for lunch. Und auf einmal ist es Mitte April. Speaking to some Scottish walkers I met later, it is not unknown for walkers to mistakenly follow the path to Loch Morar. Schottland ist im Vergleich zu meinen letzten Trekkingtouren in Polarkreisnähe dabei schon fast südliches Gefilde. Kurz vor dem Ziel bleibt in einiger Entfernung ein Kleinbus stehen. But first there was an 8am bus journey back down the road to the crossroads at Drumsallie, where B&H’s CWT starts in earnest. Before I went (in June 2012) I met a young bloke working in an outdoor shop who said he’d just followed the CWT as far as Ullapool. Das sind die Momente, für die ich draußen bin. 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